Potting | Watering | Light | Fertilising | Temperature | Air
Pests | Blooming | Offshoots, Offsets or Pups | Mounting

Bromeliads, (bro-me-le-ad) belong to a specific plant family, Bromeliaceae, which encompasses over 2000 species plus hundreds of hybrids. With one exception all are native to the Americas. Spanish moss and Ball moss are bromeliads found across the southern United States. The pineapple is the most familiar bromeliad.In nature, many bromeliads grow on trees as epiphytes or air plants. Their roots are used mainly for support. Many bromeliads grow both on trees, as well as in the ground. Others grow on rocks and cliff faces. They are remarkably versatile, and form one of the most adaptable plant families in the world. They have a tremendous will to survive, and can offer infinite variety, challenge, exciting plant forms and colour combinations.

Bromeliads are divided into groups called genera. All make good house plants if given a reasonable amount of care.

Potting

For ease of watering in the house, most bromeliads can be potted, as opposed to mounted on wood or other material.
Bromeliads will grow in almost any medium that drains well, does not pack down, provides stability while the rooting system develops and has a slightly acid to neutral pH. A ready-mix, all purpose potting soil can be used, provided perlite, and/or very course sand is added to the mix. Tree fern fibre, pine needles, saw dust or pine bark, are all good additives, if they are available. The important consideration is that the potting mix MUST drain rapidly.

A few good potting rules to follow are: 1. Do not pot a bromeliad too deeply, plant just to the base of the leaves. 2. Do not use a pot that is too large. The danger of over-watering increases. Usually a 10-15cm pot is sufficient for a full grown plant. 3. Do not allow the plant to rock back and forth. This damages the developing roots. Stake the plant, if necessary, until the roots are well developed. 4. Use a fast-draining potting mix. The water should run right through the mix. Then empty the saucer. 5. Use a pot with drainage holes in the bottom or sides. Back to top

Watering

The roots of most bromeliads like to be moist but never soggy. Keep the central cup, if there is one, filled with fresh water. Don’t allow the water to get old or stagnant, or the plant will rot. The water should be at room temperature, and should be poured into the centre of the plant, the cup, and allowed to run through the leaves into the soil, so that the roots are moistened. One should do this at least once a week to flush out. Mist the plant every few days if the humidity is 50-60% or daily, if the house is dry. Back to top

Light

Bright, diffused light is needed by most bromeliads. Hard, spiny, thick leaved plants, as well as those with grey-green, grey or silvery leaves, can take bright light for extended periods of time. Soft, thin leaved plants do well in a spot with lowered light intensity, but no bromeliad likes a dark environment. The intense translucent red seen in many Neoregelia’s cannot be held, if grown in the house.

Symptoms of too little light are dark green, often soft, drooping leaves that are longer than normal and of poor colour. Symptoms of too much light are yellowed leaves, markings that are faded and bleached out, a leathery, stressed look to the foliage, and in extreme cases sunburn spots and holes.Back to top

Fertilising

Opinions vary among growers as to whether one should fertilize, and if so, at what strength and with what frequency. This really depends on the amount and intensity of the light the plants are grown in. Many growers do not ever fertilize Neoregelia’s and they refrain from fertilizing window sill plants during the darker months of May through to August. The strength of the fertilizer used should not exceed one fourth to one third of the recommended dosage, if fertilizer is applied once a month. If fertilizing more frequently, dilute the fertilizer to an even weaker strength. Slow release pellets such as Osmocote, can be added on top of the soil at a dosage of about one fourth teaspoon for a 13cm pot every three to four months. Never fertilize in the cup. This leads to an accumulation of salts that may burn the newly emerging leaves. BROMELIADS WILL DIE OR BE SEVERELY DAMAGED, IF THEY COME INTO CONTACT WITH COPPER OR ANY KIND INCLUDING COMPOUNDS OR SPRAYS, THAT CONTAIN COPPER IN ANY FORM. (PLEASE NOTE: THIS INCLUDES WATER RUN OFF FROM COPPERS LOGS OR ANY TREATED PINE TIMBER).

Temperature

Bromeliads will be comfortable where you are. Generally, they prosper at temperatures between 10 degrees C and 32 degrees C. They prefer temperatures below 38 degrees Celsius but most will tolerate the heat, especially if there is good air circulation.Back to top

Humidity and Air Circulation

High humidity and good air circulation are essential. Humidity can be increased in the house by humidifiers, grouping plants together, misting the area frequently, and setting the pot on rocks such as lava chips in a plant saucer, with water kept below pot level in the saucer. Plastic saucers are better, because clay ones absorb moisture, and may mar furniture or floors. Bromeliads, especially those that are mounted, require excellent air circulation, but not drafts. Bromeliads in nature are usually found in areas with prominent wind currents. Invest in a fan if plants are grown indoors, to move the air. Back to top

Insects and Disease

Bromeliads are relatively pest free. If mealy bugs or scale are present, use Thimet, Disyton 5 or 25% wettable Malathion powder (never oil based) in a spray, or mix a solution and dip the plant. Be sure not to leave any insecticide in the cup. The plant should be thoroughly watered the day before treatment. Don’t use oil based sprays. Fungus can be controlled by Captan. Bromeliads grown in the house rarely have any pests. When using chemicals, treat your plants outside, but if you must treat inside, always provide adequate ventilation. Wear a long sleeved shirt, protect hands with rubber gloves, shower immediately after finishing and put on clean clothes. Back to top

Blooming

Most cultivated bromeliads bloom only once in their lifetime. Plants mature and bloom at different ages, depending on their heredity and growing conditions. Many bromeliads, such as the Neoregelia, have such beautiful foliage that their bloom is regarded as a bonus, rather than essential. A strong change in growing conditions, such as light may trigger a mature plant to bloom. Excessive dryness also sometimes initiates bloom.Back to top

Offshoots, Offsets or Pups

After a plant has bloomed, it will very slowly die over the next year or two, but it will replace itself with new plants called pups, offsets or offshoots. Most pups grow off the side of the mother plant at the base. Remove these pups when they are about one third to one half the size of the mother plant. Use a sharp knife or clippers, and cut as close as possible to the mother plant without injuring it. Some attachments are stoloniferous, and are often very woody. Some kind of serration is helpful, as is a small saw. If the pup has a long woody stolon, detach a large part of it before mounting or potting. The top can be twisted (not cut) directly out of the top of a supermarket pineapple, hardened for a week or two, and then potted successfully. Always remove any brown leaves before potting a pup. The mother plant, especially if helped along with a small amount of diluted fertilizer, will continue to produce pups until it dies. Some pups are difficult to root. Place the pup in a plastic pot tall enough to support the pup. Place a small amount of peat moss in the bottom of the pot and place the rootless pup atop that. Don’t put any other mix in the pot. Water as you would the other plants in your collection. Roots usually will appear readily. Offsets will usually mature in one to three years. Back to top

Mounted Plants

Bromeliads can be mounted to grow as epiphytes (air plants). Grape wood, driftwood, mallee roots, tree fern slabs, rocks and cork are good bases for mounting. Driftwood should be soaked for several days to leach out the salts before attaching plants. Use plastic coated wire, staples, various glues or narrow strips of nylon stockings to tie or secure plants. Be careful not to damage the base of the plant. Mounted plants depend on their leaves for moisture and food. Water theentire plant thoroughly at least twice a week, and douse them thoroughly in a tub or sink weekly. Shake the water off, if necessary. Fertilize mounted plants sparingly with a diluted liquid fertilizer. Back to top